Tips on how to buy a used bike

Buying tips on specific bikes. (More coming soon)

General buying tips

This section is aimed at those who have not bought a used bike before and contains general tips to point you in the right direction, the list is not exhaustive.

Before buying a bike, whether new or used, it pays to ask yourself what you want the bike to do for YOU. There is little point in buying a Yamaha R1 if you intend to commute 4 miles to work and back daily and nothing else. Likewise, there is little point in buying a cruiser to do several hundred miles a day in all weathers.

More important to buy the correct type of bike for your needs and make it work for you, than have the latest all singing all dancing model just because your mate has one.

As with buying anything second-hand it is worth taking time to make a few sensible checks to satisfy yourself that things are in order, or at least you are aware of what needs to be replaced or repaired. If in doubt take someone knowledgeable with you.

Does the seller advertise with a mobile phone? Is the seller a trader in disguise? Ask the seller about ‘The bike’ and if the reply is ‘which one’ be wary. Be wary if the buyer insists on meeting in such places as motorway service stations etc.

Also a few simple checks, of the service history and HPI (Hire Purchase Information) www.hpicheck.com can save a lot of heartache later on. HPI not only checks to see if there is any outstanding finance on your intended purchase, but also shows: -

• Any police interest in the vehicle. Whether its stolen/wanted in connection with crime etc.
• If a V23 has been submitted. Commonly confused with a bike having been written off, but it basically means if there has been a V23 form submitted there has at some stage been a major insurance payout on the vehicle. Such as theft/fire/accident damage etc. The vehicle can be put back on the road quite legally with a V23 marker against it if certain conditions are met. See HPI for further info.
• All previous registrations are also checked if the bike has been the subject of a cherished number plate transfer.
• VIN match check to try and prevent and identify ‘ringed’ vehicles.
• Mileage checks if the vehicles is ex-rental.

Most motoring organisations offer an HPI service at discounted rates and some are free.

Most dealers will have done an HPI check on the bike prior to taking it in, in the first place, be sure to ask them if it has been done.

A full service history will add to the value of the bike, and is more important if the vehicle has covered a higher mileage.

A partial history is better than none, especially if only minor services are missing, but is worth nothing extra on the price of the bike. Treat the same as no history.

If there is no service history, be extra vigilant in checking the bike especially if high miles and/or many owners, use this to bargain for a lower price.

• If a one owner motorcycle, try and ascertain what the bike was used for mainly. Was it commuting/touring/racing?
• Commuting causes more wear and tear in general on the clutch, gearbox, transmission and brakes, also if very short journeys, the engine may not get fully warm resulting in rapid engine wear and, in the case of four-strokes, corrosion in the exhaust system. If used in heavy traffic all day, it may have resulted in overheating from constant stop starting.
• Touring causes less wear and tear due to the bike being at the correct operating temperature more of the time. Brakes are less likely to have been abused. Suspension may be a bit tired if used two up with lots of luggage for most of its life.
• Raced bikes bring their own problems and are best steered clear of unless you know exactly what you’re doing. Telltale signs are often bolts that have been drilled and wired, especially the sump plug, to stop them vibrating loose.
• Check for obvious signs of crash damage or the bike having been dropped.
• Check bodywork and panels for cracks scrapes and repairs.
• Check underneath the engine and exhaust for scrapes, as well as the more obvious, brake and clutch lever ends, footpegs etc.
• Check the wheels for dents or cracks, especially if aluminium.
• Check tyres for signs of uneven wear and damage.
• Check the frame and cycle parts for rust and missing paint.
• Check cables and brake pipes for signs of wear/damage.
• If you can, get the front wheel off the ground and check the forks for play, and check they move from side to side smoothly.
• While the wheel is off the ground, squeeze the brake lever hard, and then let it go, check the brakes are not binding. Same for the rear.
• If you can see the brake pads, make sure they are not worn to the metal. Check brake discs for scoring, as replacements are expensive.
• Check the fork seals for oil leaks, make sure the forks are not unusually clean in comparison to the rest of the bike, they may have been cleaned just prior to your inspection disguising any leak. If in doubt, pump the forks several times and check again for leaks. New seals are inexpensive, but are awkward to replace.
• Check the rear suspension unit(s) for damping, does it feel soggy? Replacements are expensive.
• Check the chain for excessive play/wear by pulling the chain away from the sprocket at the rear of the sprocket, it should not move any more than a fraction of an inch. Also grip the chain in the middle of the bottom run, and push from side to side across the bike, again it should not move by much, the heavier the chain, the less movement you want to see. Check the chain adjusters; are they near the end of their adjustment? Some bikes have a chain wear indicator, is it in the red?
• Has the chain been lubricated, is there any sign of corrosion, are the sprocket teeth hooked?
• Shaft drive. Engine off, put the bike in gear and check for excessive drive-train play. Engine on, put the bike in gear, most big bikes will give a healthy clunk, make sure its not too noisy. Check final drive unit for oil leaks or signs of recent rebuild. e.g. new gaskets, gasket sealant etc. 
• Try and hear the engine being started from cold. Does it start cleanly and first time? Does the battery sound healthy?
• Check the headlamp glass and cover for dampness, all other lenses for cracks or botched repairs.
• Is the exhaust standard or an aftermarket one? Is the original available? Especially if the fitted one is not road legal. It may sound good, but may not be legal for an MOT. If the exhaust was first used on or after 1^st April 1991 it should have the following marks: BSAU.193/T3 or EC directive 78/1015.
• There is no substitute for a road test, if the owner is willing, take the bike for a test run, even if he/she goes with you. Make sure all the controls and instruments work smoothly, check it does not jump out of gear when accelerating or on the overrun, try each gear with both.
• Check the bike starts first time when the engine is warm.
• Only when you have satisfied yourself that everything is in order, or you are aware of any faults, make an offer for the bike. Check the price of a similar  secondhand bike with others currently for sale on autotrader or similar.
• If you are in any doubt, get a second opinion, preferably someone with knowledge of the type of bike you intend to buy, and listen to them!

If you are still in doubt, walk away, there will always be another bike.

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Last updated 31/05/02